APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS

HOW TO APPLY WATERWAYS POOL EPOXY COATINGS WITH EASE AND SAFETY

For your convenience we compiled the following application description for easy reading and understanding.

Please contact us for further clarification or provide us with your comments.
The WaterWays team will be happy to assist you.

Please read these STEP by STEP instructions very carefully and follow them to the letter.

Remember that short cuts become complicated, frustrating and very expensive

STEP 1

UNDERSTAND YOUR REQUIREMENTS

Determine the size of your pool and the correct coating quantities and price by using our online calculator and price list.
Please contact us if you are not sure about the required quantities and price. The WaterWays team will provide free assessments without any obligation (Gauteng only).
Please do not forget to consider the costs of brushes, safety gear, sanding discs and other disposables.

STEP 2

EMPTING YOUR POOL

Please ensure compliance with local regulations regarding the disposal of your pool water

The best way to do this is by means of an external electrical or petrol driven water pump with the necessary lengths of suction and outlet hoses. Alternatively use a submersible pump (the much better option) which may be submerged in the deep end of the pool thus avoiding air suction and bleeding problems.
These pumps may be rented from Coastal Tool Hire (http://www.coastalhire.co.za) or Hire All (http://www.hireall.co.za) at a reasonable price...
The last few litres of water in the pool will have to be removed manually by bucket (or two).
If your pool is in a neglected condition with rotting water and debris (from your surrounding garden) remember not to sweep all this silt towards the pump during the emptying process. This will cause the pump to block and getting it going again takes time and effort especially if you are not using a submersible pump.
Note: Please read step 3 before starting step 2.

STEP 3

THE CLEANING PROCESS

NB! SAFETY FIRST!!
Please ensure that dust masks, ear plugs, safety gloves, full-face visors/goggles, etc. are available in advance and that they are used appropriately.

MOSAICS

Soon after starting the extraction of the water from your pool and where the water level drops to just below your mosaic tiles, you can start cleaning your mosaics from above. This is the best and safest approach to clean it. The chemicals you use can easily be rinsed away with the pool water still well within reach and you have much less risk of any harmful chemical splashing in your face (as opposed to standing in the pool)
You will have one of two different types of mosaics in a marbelite pool, -- either glass or ceramic.

Glass tiles can only be cleaned effectively with MOSAIC WONDER, available at most pool shops, BUT PLEASE BE CAREFUL; ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES AND A FULL FACE MASK/VISOR WHEN USING THIS PRODUCT.

Ceramic tiles are slightly trickier; you will identify them as being uniform in texture and smooth, not unlike bathroom tiles, with a clear glazing. Mosaic Wonder damages this glazing and you can ruin your tiles permanently. The best method would be to obtain a ceramic tile cleaner from a tile shop that will remove scale build up and chemical deposits.

Fibre-glass mosaics are always used in fibreglass pools and will normally be covered or sealed with a clear resin coating. Fibre glass mosaics can be cleaned effectively with normal pool acid.

After all the water and debris is completely removed from the pool shell and the marbelite/fibre glass surface air dry, you can proceed with further surface preparation.

MARBELITE SHELLS

Never use any type of acids to wash a marbelite surface before applying an epoxy coating, in addition to it weakening the surface structure it will also be impossible to remove any residual acid from the surface structure which in turn could cause epoxy primer bonding problems.
If the pool surface is not badly stained or algae invested and is in good condition, you may only need to wash it with a high-pressure washer, 180 – 200 Bar.  Petrol driven machines are recommended and are  available to rent from Coastal Tool Hire or Hire All.
Badly stained and pitted marbelite surfaces will have to be grinded down using a 225mm grinder with a backing pad and P36 grinding discs (available from Builders Warehouse)
Old paint removal is done in the same manner, using P16 ridged discs instead. After finishing the sanding, be sure to rinse the complete pool and surrounding areas thoroughly with water...

Note this is a very dusty and noisy job, please insure that you use face masks ear plugs and safety gloves for this and be sure to close all the windows in the vicinity.

NB!! BEFORE STARTING THIS JOB PLEASE HAVE A HIGH QUALITY MARKING PEN AVAILABLE to mark and highlight all the areas of your pool that need further repair - after the cleaning has been done.

FIBREGLASS SHELLS

Fibreglass pools are easy to clean and prepare as they normally have a smooth surface which generally does not require heavy grinding.
Simply sanding it by hand would do the trick, using 60 – 80 grit sandpaper. Use circular motions for sanding the complete pool without missing a spot. Again mark al those areas that would need later attention.
Diluted hydrochloric pool acid can be used to rinse the fibreglass shell (not for marbelite linings) after the sanding has been done.
A 1:1 water/hydrocholric acid mix works for normal rinsing; but a stronger solution may be used if required.

NB!!! BE ABSOLUTELY SURE TO THOROUGHLY DILUTE / RINSE ALL REMAINING ACID RESIDUES FROM THE POOL WHEN DONE!!!

STEP 4

REPAIR WORK AND FINAL PREPARATION

MARBELITE

After finishing the sanding, be sure to rinse the complete pool and surrounding areas thoroughly with water...
Any spots requiring repair and as previously marked should be repaired at this stage.
.It is extremely easy to do.

CRACKS

Hairline cracks are very common in marbelite pools and these will be covered effectively by the epoxy primer. Repair any hairline cracks that you are able to pry open, for example with your fingernail or a small flat screwdriver, or any hairline crack or small hole where fine debris appear to be stuck.
Use a small flat chisel and hammer and carefully chip the crack along its peripheral to widen it.
Where hollow spots occur (where tapping the marbelite produces a hollow sound), be sure to remove the marbelite completely until the lifted (hollow) portion is totally removed.

There are two methods of repairing the spots that you have exposed.
Firstly “UNDER WATER POOL PATCH” can be used and it is available at most pool shops and is very easy to work with. This is especially suitable for minor cracks and if there are not to many of them.

Alternatively you could use a mixture of marbelite and “FLEXBOND” (latex based bonding liquid).This mixture is extremely strong and is suitable for the repair of bigger cracks and larger areas if needed.

Allow to cure for 1 day after which, all your repair work should be set and ready to complete. Use a small grinder with a fine sanding disk and flatten the repaired spots to blend them with the surface of the pool. Determine its smoothness by touch. No ridges or indentations should be felt when you run your fingers over the repaired area.
Use only a broom and/or a vacuum cleaner to clear out any settled dust from the repair process. You may start the primer coat the very same day.

FIBREGLASS

To repair fibreglass is a lot simpler than what you might think. However, there are a few considerations. ---
Hollow spots (where a cavity has formed between the lining and substrate) is again the most common problem with fibreglass. Such hollow spots (sounding hollow when tapped) can easily tear causing water seepage and eventually fibreglass shell disintegration. Be meticulous in locating and repairing all such areas.

Use a small grinder with a cutting disc and cut out a square (to completely include the damaged area) and remove the fibreglass in such a manner that will not require any excessive pulling or tearing. Pulling and tearing will cause further shell separation and complicate the process...

Fibreglass repair kits may be purchased at most professional pool shops and instructions on how to correctly use these kits will be provided by them. (This is quite simple).
Allow to settle for 1 day after which all correctly executed repair work will be cured and ready for final preparations.
Use a small grinder once again with a fine sanding disc and backing plate to sand down all hardened repair work to blend with the immediate surrounding area.
Use a broom and vacuum cleaner to clean out any remaining dust...

STEP 5

MIXING THE RESPECTIVE COATS

After all repairs and preparations have been successfully carried out and your pool is dust and debris free, you can proceed with the first primer coat.

Be sure to use a water dampened lint free cloth and wipe the complete pool down eliminating any remaining dust or foreign objects...
You will be supplied with four different epoxy coatings consisting of two components each for the four individual coats, clearly labelled:

1ST PRIMER NO 1 Component A 
1ST PRIMER NO 1 Component B
2ND PRIMER NO 2 Component A 
2ND PRIMER NO 2 Component B
PRE-FINAL TOP COAT NO3 Component A 
PRE-FINAL TOP COAT NO3 Component B
FINAL TOP COAT NO 4 Component A
FINAL TOP COAT NO 4 Component B

Have several containers suitable plastic available for the mixing process.
Do not attempt to mix more than 4 litres at any one time as you might not be able to apply all before curing due it's limited pot life(1-1.5hours).

Before mixing please ensure that everything is ready to go! Please note that you will not want to scurry around for brushes, rollers etc. when the epoxy is already mixed. The primer coat has a pot life of one to 1.5 hours depending on the ambient temperature, the warmer it is the less time you have to apply the coat before the mixed epoxy starts curing...

Please note that all 4 coats (2 different primer coats plus 1 unique pre-final coat plus 1 unique final coat) will require the same fundamental mixing ratio i.e. 3 parts component A and 1 part component B.

NB! Note that for the 1ST PRIMER NO 1 ONLY, one part water must be added to the mix. THIS IS IN ADDITION TO THE NORMAL MIXING RATIO-SEE BELOW

MIXING THE FIRST PRIMER COAT NO 1 (CLEAR)

Three (3) Parts Component A, One (1) Part Component B and One (1) Part Water

Be sure to use the 1ST PRIMER NO 1 (clear) for this process.

This mix (including the water component) will result in an ideal viscosity for the application of the 1ST PRIMER NO 1 (clear) while ensuring proper penetration, waterproofing and bonding with the marbelite shell.

Be sure to use a variable speed electric hand drill and a paint mixing tool to mix the A and B components (and the water with the first primer) very thoroughly for ALL RESPECTIVE COATS!!! (Builders Warehouse or any paint /hardware store will assist you with this)

MIXING THE REMAINING THREE COATS: 2ND PRIMER NO 2, PRE-FINAL TOP COAT NO 3 and FINAL TOP COAT NO 4.

Three(3) Parts Component A with One (1) Part Component B

NB! Never add water to pre-final coat mix no 3 and or final coat mix no 4
Also refrain from adding water to the second primer coat mix no 2 (WHITE) although both the primer coats are water reducible.

STEP 6

APPLYING THE 1st PRIMER EPOXY MIX NO1

(CLEAR)

(Try for a windless day - it helps a lot)

Use only 50mm “BLONDIE” paint brushes for cutting under the mosaic, around the weir and return pipes and all other places where coat edging is required.
Use 225mm “MOCK MOHAIR” rollers for the walls and floors.
Start with the cutting work (edging) in the deep end while a second person applies the coating by roller as you progress around the pool from the deep end. The cutting work takes time, thus two people are recommended for this job (one for cutting and the other with the roller on the sides and bottom). Work your way towards the shallow end and be sure to leave yourself space for the final cutting at the step.

You can use water to clean paint brushes, rollers, mosaics and yourself after you are done…..

STEP 7

PAINTING THE 2ND PRIMER EPOXY

MIX NO2 (WHITE)

Now it becomes repetition, repeat STEP 6 the following day, making sure that you use the 2ND PRIMER EPOXY MIX NO2 (WHITE).

The only preparation that is needed would be to give the applied 1st PRIMER EPOXY MIX NO1 (CLEAR) a light but thorough sanding with fine sand paper followed with a broom and vacuum cleaner.

NOTE: WATER MUST NOT BE ADDED TO THE 2ND PRIMER EPOXY MIX NO2 (WHITE)

STEP 8

APPLYING THE 1ST TOP COAT

Once again the application process is as for STEPS 6 and 7 (to be done on day after step 7)

Please note that the remaining two COATS ARE NOT WATER REDUCIBLE.

Also note that you must NEVER ADD ANY TYPE OF SOLVENT TO THE PRE-FINAL TOP COAT NO3 and THE FINAL TOP COAT NO 4

Adding solvents to any of the coatings will severely degrade the overall quality of the epoxy coating!!
Lacquer thinners can be used to clean the brushes used for the last two coats.
Apply the coating to the pool walls before doing the floor as the rollers initially give off small amounts of fluff and you would be able to pick those away with your paintbrush before doing the floor.
Remember, the epoxy sets rock hard and any debris such as fluff becomes hard and sharp and somewhat unpleasant when set. Pay careful attention to detail and save yourself effort afterwards.
By doing this promptly you will prevent the tearing of your coating where you might try to remove such debris where the curing process has already started.
Please note that the formulation of this pre-final coat no3 is such that it will cure to a slightly dull (mat) finish to allow effective lamination with the final coat...

STEP 9

THE FINAL COAT

Finally, again repeat the application process as for STEPS 6 to 8 (at least one day after applying the pre-final coat).
Before starting, this will be your opportunity to ensure optimum appearance of your final coat by meticulously inspecting every nook and cranny of the surface and to ensure that all little flaws, runs, bulges, insects, leaves, etc.are properly taken care of as follows:;
Use sand paper or a very fine sanding disk on a small grinder and EVER SO LIGHTLY run over the complete surface taking care NOT TO DAMAGE THE COATING.
Then wipe down the whole pool with thinners immediately before the final application.

STEP 10

FILLING YOUR POOL

Wait at least 3 days in summer and 5 days in winter before filling your pool.
When full, backwash and rinse your filter, set chemicals and enjoy!

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VERY IMPORTANT NOTES AND RECOMMENDATIONS:

WEATHER

It is always a good idea to carefully follow the weather reports so that you can plan the work with minimal risk of rain during the procedure.
The final coat is the most critical as far as rain is concerned and the execution thereof must be planned carefully to avoid rain during the application process and for at least 6 to 8 hours thereafter. Should it rain after the coating is fully applied but before it is properly cured it is not a train smash as the rain will not wash away your hard work or damage the applied epoxy but it will affect the pigment of the final coat (if coloured) and leave you with white spots on the surface. NB! NEVER apply epoxy over raindrops. Stop applying the coating before the rain starts.
 Please visit http://www.weather.co.za for your local weather reports.

CURING TIMES

Dependant on the ambient temperature, the WaterWays Epoxy Coating system normally requires about 6 to 8 hours for proper curing before it is workable for the next coat. Please remember that at least 3 days are required during summer time and 5 days during winter time before refilling your pool...
If it does rain before complete curing (on the final coat) but well after the initial 6 to 8 hours, it is advisable to drain the rainwater from the pool.
Leaving the water in the pool will delay the curing of the coated surface portion covered with water and this is not ideal.
 PLEASE DO NOT ENTER THE POOL BEFORE AT least 12 HOURS after painting as boots could leave footprints and marks on the curing epoxy.

CHEMICALS

Pool chemical may be used freely in your pool water without affecting the WaterWays Epoxy coating.
It is advisable to follow normal best practices when replenishing your pool chemicals but should you prefer to apply it directly in the water (and not in the wier) it can be done without risk to the WaterWays Epoxy coating
Please visit http://www.onlinepoolstore.co.za for any general pool chemical enquiries.

The WaterWays Team is available to assist you with any clarification that you might require before during or after the procedure. We will also truly value your comments. Please contact us for assistance or discussion.

Warmest pool regards

The WaterWays Team….